[asshat]

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[Jesse Antarctica]

One thing I know is that cement emits radiations when it dries (well MORE radiations than usual but like you've got extensive knowledge on cement you already knew that).

Answer my question, do I have to flush all the fluids before hidding the body in concrete ?

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hiding yourself won't do any good

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[Anhil8tor]

So by the fiberglass assumption.....

if you were to be using concrete for say a parking lot... then it would be a good idea.. but it would not be a good idea for a column

[Bill]

One 80 lb bag of quickcrete will make 1 cubic foot of concrete. For that hole you will need 4 x 4 x 4/12 cubic feet = 5.3 bags. So get 6 bags.

Yes, quickcrete will work, but you might want to buy one bag of portland cement to add to each bag of quickcrete (not much, just a little to each mix). Mix them one bag at a time with water (not too much, see above). Pour a bag in and then mix another until all 6 bags are mixed and in place. You might want to have some 3'6" pieces of reinforcing steel to throw in there. Then finish with a trowel and use an edger around the edge to make it look nice.

Another nice touch would be to have a paint brush or other bristled brush to brush the surface when you finish. Most concrete has a broomed finish. Finish it to match the rest of your patio.

You forgot to tell the boy to undermine the existing patio slab so it doesn't heave.

[Bill]

Mr. Vila, I was hoping to "level" a floor in my basement before adding tile, so I was going to use a really runny cement and let it level off by itself.
Based on what you said of the h2o weakening the strength, I'm not too concerned because this will go under floor tile when it hardens.
Would you agree this is OK to do?
Holla back, my niggle. Thanks.

I'll answer this one since Asshat passed you by.


They make special compounds for this that are self leveling. I would recomend Gyp crete, which is as the name sugests, gypsum concrete. since you are talking about a basment, it would be ideal. it's pumped, not poured like concrete (yeah you can get concrete pomped in too but it's much more expensive.) which makes it easy to get in through an existing window.

[Dr. Lecter]

thanks dude. Asshat must be jaded by the lack of Thank You's. Methinks this will be the only Asshat fact of the day.
Bring on the Hermaphrodites!

[asshat]

So by the fiberglass assumption.....

if you were to be using concrete for say a parking lot... then it would be a good idea.. but it would not be a good idea for a column

Actually, I think that fiberglass is used only when steel is either not economical or is not feasible. If you are making a lightweight concrete slab, say a parking garage deck, they might use fiberglass to reinforce the slab to cut down on the weight. I have never seen fiberglass used, so I tend to believe that the tensile strength that it gives the concrete is not as good as steel.

To answer your question, it would probably be better used in a compressive situation like a slab, rather than a tension situation like a column or beam.

[asshat]

I'll answer this one since Asshat passed you by.


They make special compounds for this that are self leveling. I would recomend Gyp crete, which is as the name sugests, gypsum concrete. since you are talking about a basment, it would be ideal. it's pumped, not poured like concrete (yeah you can get concrete pomped in too but it's much more expensive.) which makes it easy to get in through an existing window.

Missed that one. Yes, Bill is right on this one. Not sure about the Gypsum concrete, but they do make self leveling epoxy materials that are used to level floor slabs. They can be poured very thin and do not crack like thin layers of concrete.

I would definitely not recommend pouring a soupy cement mixture and especially not pouring it thin. It would crack so much that it would be useless in that application.

[Bill]

Actually, I think that fiberglass is used only when steel is either not economical or is not feasible. If you are making a lightweight concrete slab, say a parking garage deck, they might use fiberglass to reinforce the slab to cut down on the weight. I have never seen fiberglass used, so I tend to believe that the tensile strength that it gives the concrete is not as good as steel.

To answer your question, it would probably be better used in a compressive situation like a slab, rather than a tension situation like a column or beam.

you are correct sir.

[asshat]

You forgot to tell the boy to undermine the existing patio slab so it doesn't heave.

This would probably be a good idea, and drilling into the existing concrete would also be suggested. I didn't want to over complicate it.

The ideal, would be to dig a small beam under the existing concrete around the perimeter of the hole. About 6 inches deep and 6 inches under the existing edge. This will lock the two slabs together and keep the new concrete from heaving up above the existing slab in case you get any ground swell. Also, over dig the hole about 2 inches and use some cushion sand underneath. This will also minimize the heaving.

In addition, get a small hammer drill and drill some 1/2 inch holes into the existing concrete midway. Drill them 6" to 8" into the concrete. Take about 18" long pieces of #3 rebar and dip them in a two part epoxy and stab them into the holes. This will keep the slab from settling and the joint from pulling apart. If you are concerned with any expansion problems, you should use a 1/2" asphalt expansion board around at least two sides.

[Bill]

This would probably be a good idea, and drilling into the existing concrete would also be suggested. I didn't want to over complicate it.

The ideal, would be to dig a small beam under the existing concrete around the perimeter of the hole. About 6 inches deep and 6 inches under the existing edge. This will lock the two slabs together and keep the new concrete from heaving up above the existing slab in case you get any ground swell. Also, over dig the hole about 2 inches and use some cushion sand underneath. This will also minimize the heaving.

In addition, get a small hammer drill and drill some 1/2 inch holes into the existing concrete midway. Drill them 6" to 8" into the concrete. Take about 18" long pieces of #3 rebar and dip them in a two part epoxy and stab them into the holes. This will keep the slab from settling and the joint from pulling apart. If you are concerned with any expansion problems, you should use a 1/2" asphalt expansion board around at least two sides.

as an alternate I would suggest digging the area out say to 4" below bottom of the existing patio slab and backfill with 4" of sand and install a few brick pavers. would be a nice accent.

[Bill]

So when can we start our own tv series....

[asshat]

So when can we start our own tv series....

[Bill]

http://www.luxor.nl/Dumb%20&%20Dumber.jpg

zing!

I call dibs on the Jim Carrey Role.

[SanDog]

I actually knew a lot of that. I need to do knowledge dump and get this shit out my head for other useless facts to come in.